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Gree heat pumps have been sold in New Zealand for over 20 years, and a significant number of the units in Auckland homes right now have never been professionally serviced. If yours is one of them, this article covers what you need to know.
The current range includes the Kea AI, Kingfisher, Weka, and Bora-X. If your unit is a Lomo or Hyper, those were the primary models sold here through roughly 2018 to 2023 and everything in this article applies to them as well. What the remote symbols do, what temperatures to target, how to clean the filter, what fault codes mean, and what a professional service covers that the filter section of the manual doesn't mention.
Gree is distributed in New Zealand by Realcold NZ Ltd, operating under the name Gree New Zealand and based in Auckland. Realcold NZ holds the warranty for all Gree products sold in New Zealand. For warranty claims, contact them directly through greeac.co.nz.
Gree has been sold here through 128 authorised dealers and nine distribution centres nationwide. The Lomo and Hyper series were the primary residential models from roughly 2018 to 2023. The current range is the Kea AI, Kingfisher, Weka, and Bora-X. If you're not sure which model you have, the model number is on a sticker on the indoor unit casing, visible when the front panel is opened.
The five main modes on your Gree remote are AUTO, COOL, HEAT, DRY, and FAN. All current NZ hi-wall models use the same icon-based selection.
AUTO (a triangle with three small arrows) tells the unit to select cooling, heating, or fan-only operation based on the room temperature. Your unit decides what to run. In mild Auckland weather this can cause the unit to switch between heating and cooling in the same session if the temperature sits near the setpoint. For reliable winter heating, set HEAT manually.
COOL (a snowflake) runs the compressor in cooling operation. HEAT (a sun symbol) runs in heating. DRY (a water droplet) dehumidifies by running the indoor fan at low speed while the compressor removes moisture. FAN (a fan blade) runs the fan only, with no heating or cooling.
TURBO runs the fan at maximum speed and full compressor output for 30 minutes to change the room temperature quickly, then returns to previous settings automatically.
SLEEP (a crescent moon) adjusts the temperature setpoint gradually overnight. In cooling mode it raises the setpoint by 1°C after one hour, then a further 1°C after two hours, and holds there. In heating mode it lowers the setpoint by 1°C per hour for up to three degrees. Your unit is not malfunctioning if the room temperature shifts slightly overnight in sleep mode.
X-FAN (a fan blade with wind lines) runs the indoor fan for several minutes after the unit is switched off in cooling or dry mode. Your manual states it is designed to dry the internal components and "avoid mould." If your unit runs in cooling mode through summer, using X-FAN at the end of each session is the single most useful owner action for limiting organic growth inside the unit between services.
8°C mode (shown as a dollar sign icon or 8° on the display) maintains the room at exactly 8°C. The fan speed defaults to auto and cannot be adjusted. Most owners use this when leaving the property unoccupied in winter to prevent the house getting cold and damp. It cannot run simultaneously with sleep mode.
QUIET mode reduces fan noise by limiting fan speed and compressor output. Useful for bedrooms overnight.
For heating, 18 to 22°C is the efficient operating range. Every degree above 22°C increases running cost without heating the room noticeably faster. For cooling, 20 to 24°C is the efficient range. Setting the temperature lower than 20°C does not cool the room faster; it just costs more to run.
If your unit is set to AUTO mode, it may switch between heating and cooling in mild weather as the room temperature moves around the setpoint. For more predictable operation and lower running costs, set HEAT or COOL manually and then dial in your temperature target.
Fan speed cycles through AUTO, LOW, MED-LOW, MED, MED-HIGH, HIGH, and TURBO using the fan speed button. AUTO fan speed lets the unit adjust airflow based on how far the room is from the setpoint, faster when there is a larger gap, slower once the room reaches temperature. Most owners find AUTO fan speed the most practical setting for day-to-day use.
On Hyper and Lomo models, the iChoose LED display can be switched off at night using the remote. The unit continues to operate normally. This is useful for bedrooms where the display brightness is disruptive.
The iFeel function switches temperature sensing from the indoor unit to the remote itself. When you press the iFeel button, the unit stops using the sensor on the wall and starts using the sensor in the remote, wherever in the room it happens to be sitting.
Your remote sends the detected temperature to the indoor unit every 10 minutes. If the unit does not receive a reading for 11 minutes, it reverts to its own sensor. The iFeel icon appears on the remote display when active.
The practical effect: if the indoor unit is high on a wall at one end of a long room and you are sitting at the other end, iFeel gives the unit a more accurate picture of the temperature where you actually are. Place the remote near where you sit rather than next to a heat source, a cold window, or a door. iFeel is available on all current NZ Gree hi-wall models.
Your Gree hi-wall has WiFi built in as standard. The app is called GREE+, available on iOS and Android. All four current NZ hi-wall models have factory-fitted WiFi. The Hyper series also came with WiFi as standard. Earlier Lomo models were sold with WiFi as an optional dongle requiring installation by a licensed technician. If you have an older Lomo and WiFi does not appear active, the dongle may not have been fitted.
One known behaviour: to adjust temperature in AUTO mode using the app, you need to have set AUTO mode using the physical remote first. The app cannot initiate AUTO mode independently. If you are finding the app inconsistent in AUTO mode, switch to HEAT or COOL via the remote and control from there.
The app was previously called Gree Smart on older Hyper and Lomo models. The underlying function is the same. The app connects through your home wireless router and requires iOS 7.0 or Android 4.4 or later.
Clean your Gree filter every three months in normal conditions, or monthly if the room is dusty. The filter indicator light activates after 250 hours of operation as a reminder. At typical Auckland use levels, four to six hours of daily operation year-round, that works out to roughly every six to eight weeks.
Your Gree filter sits behind the front panel of the indoor unit. Pull the front panel outward to an angle, then remove the filter by pressing it downward against the guide groove and lifting it free.
To clean it: vacuum loose dust first, then rinse under water below 45°C. Dry it in shade, not in direct sun and not with a hair dryer. The manual is explicit on this point — a hair dryer risks deforming the filter. Reinstall only when completely dry. A damp filter reinstalled into the unit creates exactly the conditions that encourage organic growth on the internal coil behind it.
The manual prohibits detergents on the filter. Warm water only.
After removing the filter, do not touch the metal fins visible behind it. They are sharp and easily bent out of shape.
Press the Check Filter button on the remote to reset the indicator light after cleaning.
For a more detailed step-by-step, the heat pump filter cleaning guide covers the full process including what to look for when the filter comes out.
Your filter catches what passes through the front of the unit. It does not prevent organic growth on the internal fan and the internal coil over time, particularly in units that run in cooling mode through summer.
In cooling mode, warm humid air passes across a cold coil. Moisture forms and drips into the drain tray below. The combination of warmth, moisture, and organic matter that bypasses the filter creates conditions where growth accumulates on the fan wheel and coil surface over months and years of operation.
Your filter may be relatively clean while the internal fan has significant accumulation the filter cleaning schedule does not address. A filter clean is what you do at home every few months. A professional service is what addresses the internal fan, the internal coil, the drain tray, and the drain line. These are not the same job.
The heat pump filter vs professional service article covers exactly what each one does and does not address.
A professional service covers the components your manual specifically tells you not to touch.
Your internal coil is cleaned with a specialist cleaning solution. This is the component that transfers heat between the refrigerant and the room air. When it is coated in dust and organic growth, it cannot transfer heat at full capacity. Your unit compensates by running harder and longer, which shows up on your power bill.
Your internal fan accumulates a layer of organic growth on the fan wheel over time, particularly after cooling seasons. A full service removes that accumulation. A filter clean at home does not reach it.
Your drain tray and drain line are inspected and flushed. In cooling mode, your unit produces moisture as a byproduct. That moisture drains away through the tray and pipe below the coil. When the drain line is partially blocked, moisture pools in the tray rather than clearing. When fully blocked, water backs up into the unit and may drip from the indoor unit into the room.
Your outdoor unit is inspected and cleaned. The outdoor coil rejects heat into the outside air. When it is blocked with debris, leaves, or in coastal Auckland properties with salt deposits, your system works harder to push heat through it. The Hyper series came with Gold Fin coating on the outdoor coil for improved corrosion resistance, worth noting if you are in a coastal suburb. Other models use standard fin coating and may benefit from more frequent outdoor unit checks near the coast.
After a full service, a temperature reading is taken at the return air intake and at the supply outlet. In cooling mode, 8 to 10 degrees difference between those two readings confirms the system is transferring heat properly. That measurement gives you a clear before-and-after reference point for what the service achieved.
For a full breakdown of what is included and current Auckland pricing, see the heat pump service cost guide or visit the heat pump care service page.
The Kea AI has a self-cleaning function that is more involved than the standard auto-clean on older models. Activating it runs the indoor coil through a disinfection cycle at 56°C, which treats the coil surface. The outdoor unit also has a five-step self-cleaning process.
Your Kea AI's self-clean addresses the coil surface. It does not clean the internal fan wheel, does not treat the drain system, and does not inspect or clear the drain line. A Kea AI that has run its self-clean function regularly will have a cleaner coil than an unserviced unit of a different model. The internal fan is a separate component with separate access, and the self-clean cycle does not reach it.
The self-clean function is a useful feature. It is not a substitute for professional servicing on the components it does not address.
If your unit runs in both heating and cooling year-round, as most Auckland units do, annual professional servicing is the correct interval. The cooling cycle is the key variable: moisture and warmth inside the unit during cooling season create conditions for organic growth on the internal fan and in the drain system that build between services.
For a unit that only runs for heating in winter with consistent filter cleaning and no cooling use, a two-year interval can be reasonable.
The 2026 Gree NZ warranty card states the warranty is void if annual professional servicing is not carried out by a qualified tradesperson. The authorised repairer will ask to see service records when attending a warranty claim. Service records do not need to come from a Gree-authorised agent. Any qualified professional with documented records satisfies the requirement.
The how often to service a heat pump article covers the interval question in full, including the conditions that push it shorter.
When your Gree indoor unit displays a fault code, the first step is always the same: switch the unit off at the isolation switch near the outdoor unit, leave it off for three minutes, then switch back on and restart. If the code clears and does not return, the unit can continue operating. If it returns on the next startup, you need a qualified technician.
The codes below are those most commonly seen on Gree wall-mounted residential units.
H1 — Not a fault. Your unit is in defrost mode or performing an oil return cycle in heating operation. This is normal behaviour, particularly in cold or humid conditions. The display clears once the cycle completes, usually within a few minutes. If H1 persists for more than 15 minutes consistently, have the defrost cycle checked at your next service visit.
E2 — Indoor anti-freeze protection. The indoor coil temperature has dropped too low and the unit has stopped the compressor to prevent the coil from icing over. The service manual instructs technicians to check specifically whether the indoor filter has filth blockage or whether there is dust on the filter and coil. A heavily coated filter restricts airflow across the coil, causing the coil temperature to drop too far in cooling mode. If you see E2 repeatedly, check your filter first. If the filter is clean, a professional service is the next step.
E1 — High pressure protection. The refrigerant pressure has exceeded safe limits and the system has shut down. One of the technician diagnostic checks is whether the indoor and outdoor heat exchangers are dirty or whether there is an obstacle affecting airflow. A coated outdoor coil or blocked outdoor unit can contribute to high pressure conditions. Check for debris or vegetation blocking the outdoor unit before calling a technician.
E4 — Compressor discharge high temperature protection. The temperature of the refrigerant leaving the compressor has exceeded safe limits. The service manual lists a blocked indoor filter or air duct in cooling mode as one of the possible causes. If this code appears during cooling, check your filter.
E5 — Overcurrent protection. The unit is drawing too much electrical current. The service manual links this to poor heat radiation from dirty heat exchangers. A heavily contaminated coil forces the system to work harder, increasing current draw. If E5 appears on a unit that has not been serviced for some time, internal contamination is a likely contributing factor.
E8 — Indoor fan motor fault. The indoor fan is rotating too slowly or has stopped. The service manual instructs technicians to check whether the motor, rotation shaft, or blade is blocked by foreign objects. In most cases this is a component fault rather than a maintenance issue, but a fan wheel heavily coated with organic growth can in rare cases create enough resistance to trigger this protection.
E6 — Communication fault. The indoor and outdoor units are not communicating. This is a wiring or component issue and is not maintenance-related. A reset may clear a temporary fault. If the code returns, a technician is required.
E3 — Low pressure or refrigerant protection. The refrigerant pressure is too low, indicating a refrigerant circuit issue or potential leak. Do not attempt to restart the unit repeatedly. Contact a qualified technician. R32 refrigerant, used in current Gree models including the Weka and Bora-X, requires a licensed RAC tradesperson for any refrigerant work.
E7 — Modes conflict. This code appears on multi-split systems when one indoor unit is set to heating while another is set to cooling. It is a user operation issue, not a hardware fault. Set all indoor units to the same mode to clear it.
F0, F1, F2 — Sensor faults. These codes indicate a temperature sensor has an open or short circuit. They are component faults and are not maintenance-related. A technician will measure sensor resistance and replace the sensor or mainboard as required.
For guidance on when a fault code means a service visit is the right response and when it means a repair referral, see the heat pump repair vs service article.
Your Gree NZ residential warranty covers the unit against manufacturing defects for six years, including parts and labour, from the original installation date.
The warranty does not transfer to subsequent owners. If you purchased a property with a Gree installed, the warranty runs from the original installation date and in your name only if you are the original purchaser. If you are not the original purchaser, the manufacturer warranty does not apply to you regardless of the unit's age.
Your warranty is void if annual professional maintenance is not carried out by a qualified tradesperson. The warranty card states the authorised repairer will ask to see service records on any warranty claim visit. Service records do not need to come from a Gree-authorised agent. Any qualified professional with documented records satisfies the requirement.
Your warranty exclusions most relevant to note cover failure to keep filters clean, failure to clear obstructions including drainage pipes, and damage from corrosive atmospheric conditions. The Consumer Guarantees Act applies regardless of which qualified technician services the unit for routine maintenance. Brand authorisation is required for warranty repair work only.
The heat pump warranty and maintenance article covers how the Consumer Guarantees Act interacts with manufacturer warranty terms.
For warranty claims, contact Realcold NZ directly through greeac.co.nz.
If you want to know where your Gree unit actually stands right now, the Home Energy Health Assessment at assessment.miht.co.nz takes three minutes.
Your Gree heat pump will run for years without a fault code appearing. That does not mean it is running well.
How do I reset my Gree heat pump?
Switch off the isolation switch at the wall near the outdoor unit, leave it off for three minutes, then switch back on and restart. This is the correct procedure for most clearable fault codes. For the filter indicator light specifically, press the Check Filter button on the remote after cleaning. That resets the 250-hour counter independently of the power reset.
Does having my Gree heat pump serviced by an independent provider affect my warranty?
No, for routine maintenance. The Consumer Guarantees Act applies regardless of which qualified technician services the unit. The 2026 Gree NZ warranty requires annual servicing by a qualified tradesperson. Any qualified professional with documented records satisfies that requirement. Keep a record of every service visit including the technician's name and the date.
Is the Gree warranty transferable if I buy a house with one installed?
No. The Gree NZ warranty applies to the original purchaser only and cannot be transferred to a subsequent owner. If you purchased a property with a Gree unit installed, you are outside the manufacturer warranty regardless of the unit's age. Keeping your own service records from this point is the most useful documentation you can build.
What does the H1 code mean on my Gree heat pump?
H1 is not a fault. It indicates the unit is in defrost mode or performing an oil return cycle in heating operation. The display clears once the cycle completes, usually within a few minutes. If H1 persists for more than 15 minutes consistently, have the defrost cycle checked at your next service visit.
What is the difference between AUTO mode and HEAT mode on a Gree remote?
AUTO mode lets the unit decide whether to heat, cool, or run the fan based on room temperature relative to the setpoint. In mild Auckland conditions it can switch between heating and cooling in the same session. HEAT mode runs the compressor specifically in heating operation regardless of current room temperature. For winter use, HEAT mode gives more predictable behaviour and avoids the unit switching to cooling unexpectedly.
How often should I clean the Gree filter myself?
Every three months in normal conditions, or monthly if the room is dusty. The filter indicator light activates after 250 hours of operation, roughly every six to eight weeks at typical Auckland use levels. Rinse under water below 45°C, dry completely in shade, reinstall dry. Reset the indicator by pressing the Check Filter button.
My Gree heat pump is running but the room is not reaching the set temperature.
If the filter has not been cleaned recently, restricted airflow is the most common cause. If the filter is clean and the unit is running for extended periods without reaching temperature, the internal coil likely needs professional cleaning. A heat pump service for a standard wall unit in Auckland typically costs between $120 and $200. Persistent failure to reach temperature on an otherwise normally operating unit is the clearest sign a professional service is overdue.
What temperature should I set my Gree heat pump to?
For heating, 18 to 22°C is the efficient range. Every degree above 22°C increases running cost without heating the room noticeably faster. For cooling, 20 to 24°C is the efficient range. Setting the temperature lower than 20°C does not cool the room faster. Set HEAT or COOL mode manually rather than using AUTO, which can switch between the two in mild weather.